Change or rekey · Markham
Gate & Building Entry Locks
The padlock on the side gate has gone stiff every winter for three years running, and this year the key simply will not turn past the first few pins.
In plain words
Some building entries add a buzzer, a keypad or an electric strike to the mechanical lock, and any one of those pieces can be the reason a door stops releasing on cue. This service checks the wiring, the power supply and the mechanical override together with the lock itself, rather than assuming the fault sits wherever the last person guessed. Whatever combination of electronic and mechanical hardware the entry uses, it leaves working as one system: a mechanical key still able to open it wherever the installed lock provides one, and a fail-safe strike or maglock still releasing on its own if the power ever goes out.
How the visit goesA neighbour mentions, in passing, that the key from three tenants ago still lets him into the building's front door. Nobody changed it after he moved out, and now the property manager wants to know exactly how many keys are still floating around out there.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
How the visit goes
Weather exposure and corrosion
A gate lock lives outside in every season, so the assessment looks specifically for what weather has already done to it: pitting on the cylinder face, a stiff plug that hints at rust inside, green corrosion around a padlock shackle, or a closer that has started to weep hydraulic fluid. Ground-level hardware near a driveway or walkway gets checked especially closely, since de-icing salt collects there over winter. What this turns up decides whether the existing hardware can be cleaned and lubricated or whether weather has already gone past what maintenance alone can address.
Resetting the strike and keeper
With the gate or door's adjusted position confirmed, the strike or keeper is repositioned, shimmed or deepened so the latch or bolt has a clean, full throw into it. On a wooden gate post this can mean moving the keeper's screws to fresh wood; on a metal frame it can mean elongating or relocating the mounting holes. The goal is a strike that lines up with the latch across the gate's whole range of motion, in damp weather and dry, rather than only on the one afternoon it happened to be tested.
A record for the owner or property manager
You leave with a plain account of what changed: which cylinders were rekeyed or replaced, how many new keys were cut and to whom, whether any gate was brought onto a shared key or deliberately kept separate, and what was adjusted on the closer, strike or post. For a rental or a condo, this note is worth passing to whoever manages the building, since it settles later questions about who currently holds a working key without anyone having to guess or ask around.
Gate & Building Entry Locks
In the van
Hinges, pivots and shims
Dry graphite or PTFE lubricant
Strike plates and keepers
Key blanks and code cutter
Voltage tester for electric strikes
Gate & Building Entry Locks
What affects the quote
Weather-rated versus standard hardware
Hardware built and sealed for outdoor exposure differs from standard indoor-grade hardware, and choosing the weather-rated option for anything mounted outside is reflected in the parts portion of the quote.
Whether the post or frame needs correction
When the underlying cause is a leaning post or a shifted frame rather than the lock itself, resetting, packing or bracing that structure is quoted as its own item alongside the lock work.
Time of year and weather on the day
A cylinder frozen solid or a closer stiffened by cold takes patient work before adjustment or replacement can even begin, so a call made during a cold snap is quoted with that extra time in mind.
What to have ready
- Is the lock dragging, slamming, stuck, or simply not latching?
- Roughly how many people currently need a working key?
- Has the lock been stiff or slow in cold weather?
Gate & Building Entry Locks: questions
QuestionsShould I choose a padlock or a built-in gate lock for a new gate?
A padlock through a hasp is simple to fit to almost any gate and easy to rekey or swap later, which suits a gate that gets occasional use or belongs to more than one type of user, such as a shared laneway. A built-in gate lock with its own latch and cylinder tends to suit a gate used daily, since it operates with one motion instead of fitting and removing a separate padlock each time. Either can be paired with a closer if the gate should shut on its own.
My key snapped off in the gate lock. What now?
The broken piece is removed with extraction tools shaped to grip and draw it out, rather than forcing it further in, and the door or gate is then opened using the remaining portion or by working the cylinder directly. Afterward the locksmith checks why the key broke, since a healthy cylinder rarely snaps a key on its own; a stiff or corroded plug is a common cause outdoors. A fresh key is cut from the code or a clean original rather than a worn copy.
Why does my gate lock stick every winter?
The usual cause is meltwater getting into the keyway during a thaw and refreezing overnight, which stiffens the plug or blocks it outright, along with cold thickening any grease left inside from the factory. Road salt tracked onto ground-level hardware adds corrosion on top of that. A cylinder treated with the lubricant its maker specifies, kept clear of standing water, generally handles a winter far better than one left as it came, and a weather-rated replacement, kept up the same way, holds up better once the current one is pitted.
