Our advice corner

In most residential lockouts the lock is untouched. Picking, decoding and latch tools operate the mechanism the same way your key does, so there is nothing to repair afterwards. A drill only appears when a cylinder is seized, plugged by a snapped key or engineered against picking, and you hear about that before it starts. Should it come to that, replacement hardware goes on before the locksmith leaves so you lock up normally that evening.

A restricted or patented keyway is one whose blanks are supplied only through the manufacturer's authorised channels, so duplication is controlled rather than available at an ordinary counter, though the exact authorisation step varies by program and is not always a signed letter. For a company with staff turnover, cleaners and contractors, it means the keys in circulation are far easier to track. It can be introduced during a rekey, on the exterior doors only or across the whole premises, and works alongside a key register.

It depends on how the piece is sitting. A protruding fragment in a plug at rest can be out in moments. A deep piece behind lifted pins takes patient work with hooks and spirals. A glued or corroded fragment may mean removing the cylinder and freeing it from behind. Cutting and testing the new key, and any door adjustment, add their own time. The locksmith gives a sense of it after the first look.

Tell your landlord or property manager as soon as the police have been called; provincial tenancy law makes the landlord responsible for repairs to the unit, and most will arrange the locksmith. A tenant may not change locks without the landlord's agreement, and a landlord who changes them must give the tenant keys, so the visit is coordinated between you. If you arrange securing yourself in an emergency, keep the receipt and the record of what was done for both sides.

The face of a building that never sees direct sun stays colder and damper, so ice in a keyway lasts days longer there and condensation sits in the cylinder rather than drying off. Wind-driven rain and snow tend to hit the same face. Those doors deserve a keyhole cover, a storm door where one fits, and a lubricant check before the season turns, and they are often the first lock a locksmith asks about.

Plan on an hour or two for a typical house with three or four cylinders, including the walk-through, identification, pinning, cutting and testing. Each additional cylinder adds a little, as does swapping a cylinder to bring a mismatched door onto the same key, resetting a homeowner-rekeyable lock or clearing a garage opener. The locksmith gives a realistic window on the phone once the list of doors is known.

You can, given a key that currently operates the lock, the maker's reset tool, the new key and the steps followed in order. Trouble tends to arrive when the old key is missing, when the new key belongs to a different keyway, or when a reset stalls halfway and the cylinder then accepts neither key. A locksmith carries the tool and the procedure, can check that the new key suits the rest of your doors, and can fit a standard cylinder if a forced reset has broken the mechanism.

Very little is needed. Each spring and autumn, lock the door from inside and feel whether the bolt still goes home without the door being pulled; if it hesitates, the door has moved with the season and a small strike adjustment restores it. Whatever lubricant the lock's own maker specifies keeps it smooth, often a dry PTFE or graphite type in the keyway and along the bolt, though some cylinders are meant to be serviced with oil. In winter, wipe road salt off the outside trim to protect the finish.

Assume that copies of the old keys exist somewhere and act on the day you take possession. Walk every exterior door with the locksmith, keep hardware that is sound and have it rekeyed to a new key, replace hardware that is worn or too light, and add a deadbolt to any door that lacks one. Ask for everything to be keyed alike so you leave with one key and a known number of copies.

Whether the door takes a skeleton-style bit key or a flat key in a round cylinder, roughly when the house was built, what the knob and bolt are doing, and whether the trouble is worse with the door closed. A photo of the faceplate in the door edge and one of the keyhole side is worth a great deal. Mention how many doors are involved and how many keys you would like afterwards.

They suit turnover well: a departing tenant's code is deleted and a new one created without cutting keys or wondering about copies. Two things to plan for. The tenant in place must always have a working way in, which usually means their own code plus a key to the override cylinder, and any lock change on an occupied unit is done with the tenant's knowledge. Set the administrator account up under the property, not a departing employee, so control stays with you.

A padlock through a hasp is simple to fit to almost any gate and easy to rekey or swap later, which suits a gate that gets occasional use or belongs to more than one type of user, such as a shared laneway. A built-in gate lock with its own latch and cylinder tends to suit a gate used daily, since it operates with one motion instead of fitting and removing a separate padlock each time. Either can be paired with a closer if the gate should shut on its own.

A private mailbox, whether a standalone box at the curb or a slot in a house door, belongs entirely to that home. A building's mailbox panel groups many small locking compartments in one frame, usually in a lobby, with each compartment assigned to a unit. The lock itself works the same way in both cases; what differs is who confirms the change and how many other doors sit nearby.

Yes, and it is meant as a protection rather than a hurdle. For a business, identifying yourself as the owner, manager or an authorized employee is usually enough. For an estate, a secondhand purchase or a change of ownership, a bill of sale, transfer document or executor's paperwork fills the same role. This step protects whoever actually has a claim on what is inside the safe, which includes you.

A fire-rated interior works by sealing tightly, and that same seal traps ordinary household humidity over time with nowhere to go. Opening the door for a few hours every few weeks lets trapped air exchange with the room, and a desiccant packet inside absorbs moisture between those openings if it is refreshed on schedule. A musty smell or a soft-feeling document is the interior telling you it needs airing out.

It means your key can only be copied through the locksmith who manages your system, after checking that the person asking is on your list of authorised names. Blanks for the keyway are not sold to hardware stores or kiosks while the patent lasts. Each key is numbered and recorded, so you know how many exist. For a home that ends the worry about old copies; for a business it turns a lost staff key into a known, manageable event.

Not reliably. The stamp is a request, and any key on a standard blank can be copied by anyone with the blank and a machine. What does work is controlling the blank itself through a restricted keyway, or controlling access to the lock through interchangeable cores and a tight register. Stamping still has a place: a serial code on each key, instead of the business name, lets you track it without telling a finder where it fits.

A sub-master sits below the top level and opens a defined group, such as one department or one floor, without opening doors outside that group. The top-level master sits above every sub-master and opens everything in the system. Most properties need only one or two sub-master levels; adding more than the business genuinely uses just makes the chart harder to manage without adding real convenience.

A short walk-through maps which doors get used most, where wiring can run cleanly, and where a reader sits at a comfortable reach for everyone, including anyone using a wheelchair or a cart. Door swing and nearby glass affect where a strike or a magnetic lock sits, and mounting height gets checked against the existing door hardware so nothing interferes with the handle or closer. That walk-through happens before ordering hardware so the layout matches the building rather than the other way around.

Occupant load is calculated from the floor area and the intended use of the room, using published factors for that occupancy type, rather than a headcount taken on a busy night. A building official or a locksmith familiar with the calculation can work through it for a specific room, and the result is what decides whether the exit doors serving that room need a releasing device.

Yes. Exit devices and panic hardware are mechanical assemblies that see heavy use on a required exit, so periodic checking that the latch engages fully, the release bar moves freely, and any electrified or alarmed function still triggers correctly is worth building into the same schedule as other fire-safety equipment in the building.

Yes. Trucks and vans often have a separate cargo or tailgate lock, motorhomes use household-style cylinders on their living-space doors, trailers and hitch locks are padlock-type hardware, and motorcycle seat and steering locks are small wafer cylinders. Say what the vehicle is when you call so the right picks and blanks are in the van, and expect the same authorisation check for each.

Often, yes. A key that has been copied from copies or worn thin over the years lifts the wafers to the wrong heights, and a fresh blade cut to code restores the fit. If the wiggle continues with the new key, the wafers in the ignition cylinder have worn as well, and that cylinder can be overhauled so both the old and new keys turn cleanly. The locksmith checks the cylinder during the visit and tells you which it is.

That is worth mentioning when you call, since it changes the plan. If the count is genuinely unknown, or a key was lost at some point and never accounted for, reprogramming the vehicle to accept only the keys currently in hand is often the sounder route, rather than adding a new spare on top of an uncertain set that might include a key nobody can locate anymore.

A basic remote only operates the locks and alarm from a distance while a separate metal key still starts the engine. A transponder key combines a cut blade with a chip the immobilizer reads before allowing a start. A proximity fob goes further: it authorizes entry while it is nearby, though most vehicles still need the handle touched, gripped or pressed to actually unlock, and it starts the engine with a push button, with no key insertion needed day to day. Each type is programmed differently.

Nothing changes about it. A spare is added alongside the existing key without clearing or altering anything already stored in the vehicle's memory. The only keys that get cleared are the ones you specifically identify as lost, stolen, or no longer wanted, and that is confirmed with you before any clearing happens.

A single worn key is a common starting point after buying used, and the visit usually has two parts: reading the existing wafers so a crisp new key can be cut, and deciding whether the barrel itself needs a service given whatever wear the previous owner's key left behind. Bringing whatever paperwork came with the sale helps confirm ownership before any work begins.

Yes, and it takes only a moment. The vehicle's registration, matched to the vehicle identification number on the dash or door jamb, settles it in most cases. A rental agreement or a fleet authorization does the same job when the vehicle is not registered in your own name.

Picking manipulates the wafers to open the lock without necessarily learning their depths, useful when the goal is just to turn the lock once. Decoding reads each wafer's actual depth, usually with a scope or a feeler-style tool, so that information can be turned into a cut key. For key service the lock is generally decoded rather than only picked, since the point is producing a working key, not just a single turn.